 Sigma DP2 Software |
| Review Date: May 3, 2010 |
| Reviewer: win32forth, |
I will repeat a little of what others have said about the DP2, and then focus on the software.
1. It is not a point and shoot camera. Read everything you can find about this camera before you buy it, you will thank me later. You don.t want to go into this blind, you will just be disappointed.
2. The image quality is amazing.
3. The software is the key to the amazing images.
4. The auto focus is not as slow as everyone says. It is slow, but usable.
Ok, so about the software;
First, it is pretty easy to use, start with the auto setting, then as you adjust the settings, it switches to custom to preserve your adjustments. These adjustments can be saved with names and used for subsequent photos that were taken in the same conditions. This is very good. Be sure to use the white balance, to get the best results. I also found that setting the color balance from Auto to sunlight or shade or whatever the setting was, helps a lot with getting a nice result. The marking of under or overexposed areas is also very helpful. The DP2 has a lot of extra room to handle over exposure, but not underexposure, so you are best to overexposed a bit.
So, the software is the best I have seen, and it can also be the worst. What I mean by that, is that it can be very unstable when dealing with high ASA noisy images. SigmaPhotoPro 4.0 has problems with the noise reduction software that causes
it to crash when trying to open these images. Sigma is working on it, but it has problems.
When the noise reduction software is working, it is wonderful, but it doesn't always work. When it works, it removes the noise from the dark areas of the image perfectly. Sigma should allow the noise reduction to be used at low ASA setting, AFTER they fix the crashing.
I am still learning how to use it for HDR photography, but I think it has great potential. The DP2 will shoot three shots AEB automatically with the self timer which is great for avoiding tripod vibration, over a 6 EV range.
My commentary on the sensor is that it may be low resolution, but does upscale to an image that is of 8-10Mp quality. I know this may be hard to believe, but it is true.
If you buy one of these, you will either embrace it's personality, or you will sell it very quickly. |
The magic is back!
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| Review Date: April 26, 2010 |
| Reviewer: Thomas J. Schum, Washington DC area |
Years ago I had a hobbly while in high school: I developed and printed my own black-and-white photographs. I quickly learned that a good photograph is the result of carefully dealing with the idiosyncracies of the camera, the film, the photo production process (developing, enlarging, cropping, printing), and of course the subject matter.
I got into digital about 10 years ago, finding things to be similar to film except: no smelly chemicals and no media costs. At first I was enthralled with the new method and eventually took a few very nice photos. More recently I bought a Canon EOS 30D to try for some serious hobbyist-type artistic achievements. That camera has its strengths and I do not intend to get rid of it, but in working with it for a few years I began to percieve a weakness: the "filmlike" sense seemed to be absent from my photos, but I couldn't really be sure it was the sensor.
I had heard about the Foveon sensor when it was developed about 10 years ago, but for a long time I held off buying something so "different". Now that I have a Sigma DP2, I am sure it was the sensor! The DP2 sensor surpasses the bayer sensors found in other cameras, giving me photographic results that are, to me, filmlike. There is an unmistakable smoothness and immediacy to the images. At feature edges, I've seen no artifacts except for those rare cases when a feature beats with the sensor pixel pitch. Even these artifacts do not have the harsh rainbow look of those in my Canon. Looking at a photo is no longer like looking at a TV image printed on paper, it is so much more like looking at a photograph!
The magic is back!
I spent time living with (learning) this camera. Pros who make money with photography will not like it because there is a significant learning curve. The sensor has its idiosyncracies, as does the camera. The photo production process (using the Sigma raw viewer) is not quite exactly the same as with the Canon raw viewer either. Mastering all these details is highly worthwhile in my opinion, because of the wonderful results you will get.
After living with the DP2 for a while, I find it easy to use. The sensor does not like low light as much as the bayer sensor in my Canon 30D, or long exposures (slowest shutter speed is 15 sec, but I don't recommend using that slow a speed). The sensor saturates easily, so I usually shoot with -0.7 EV to reduce this problem (I can fix this later using the raw viewer). Color fringing on a detail can occur when the sensor is near or past saturation but you really have to be looking for it to see it. The lens is breathtakingly clear and sharp. Manual focus works like a dream (a good dream, not a nightmare as some have reported). When using manual focus there is no shutter lag. No one is intimidated by this camera either.
One of the nicest features of the Sigma DP2 is that once you have set up the shutter release for a 10-second lag, the camera will not reset that (or any other of your settings) if you power down. I found it quite annoying that all my other digital cameras reset stuff when you power them down. If I could run my Canon 30D like the Sigma DP2, I would much prefer it because I think Sigma has put a very good user interface into the DP2 system.
Finally, after experiencing the results from the Sigma DP2 I don't think I will ever buy another bayer sensor camera again. If I get a new SLR in the future it will probably be a Sigma SD15, in spite of the sizable investment I already have in lenses for my Canon 30D. The sensor is that much better. |
Intervalometer problem
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| Review Date: January 1, 2010 |
| Reviewer: C. Bigelow, Santa Monica, CA United States |
The image quality is very good, but the interval timer malfunctions:
It quits shooting after 15 to 45 exposures. The manual says it can
take up to 99 exposures, or can be set to unlimited. In fact, however,
it never even gets to 50. I've tried different image quality settings and
different intervals, but in all cases it fails after a few dozen exposures.
I bought the camera because of its combination of high quality sensor
with an interval timer, but because the timer always fails, the camera
is not nearly as useful as I had expected. Therefore I rate it only two
stars overall and and only one star for features, because for the mfgr
to tout a feature which in fact doesn't work is much worse than to not
have it at all. I wouldn't have bought the camera if I had known that
the interval timer doesn't work. |
The agony and the ecstasy
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| Review Date: December 24, 2009 |
| Reviewer: Sky Blue, Seoul, Korea |
Mind you, this is not an easy camera to enjoy. When I say this, I mean it in a way different from what many others meant here. It seems chief source of complaint is the camera's overall slowness. This does not bother me at all. It has always puzzled me why people complain this camera is slow when they almost never complain the same thing about manual focus camera such as a Leica M8 or an M9. Unless prefocused, manual focusing is almost always slower than automatic focusing, no matter how slow automatic focusing is. The fact that you missed a shot is not excused by that you were holding a manual camera any more than that you were holding a slow automatic. And make no mistake, this camera is not so slow as to miss too many moving objects at "normal" speeds. It is of course slower than a DSLR, but for ordinary daily use, keine problemo.
My agony stems from this camera's post-processing software. Not that it is in any way flawed. Far from it. It is a tremendous software, so easy to use and so convenient. The best thing about this is that you can have as many customized settings as you want and simply let it run the whole folder for automatic conversion. You will find for most photos this conversion will take care of itself and you won't ever need individual touching. But it may take a while to find the ideal setting combination as there is no guidance. You would have to experiment and find the combination that you would like for MOST of your photos through trial and error, and this process could be very tricky and time-consuming. If you cannot find the right combination for you, you will be frustrated. The colors will look either too gaudy/unnatural/saturated or too mundane, the picture will be either too bright or too dark, etc. This is really the crucially important process, I find, and I suggest that you search discussion forums in the Internet for a guidance.
The operation of the camera is superbly simple and convenient. Manual focusing could be used in all modes (eg in program mode, in aperture priority mode or in speed mode) just by pushing one dedicated button and turning the dial. Most important settings such as ISO/flash/WB/exposure are all in one specially designated button. Exposure compensation is easy as it is done in one step. Auto Exposure Lock (AEL) is very useful and has its own button. Battery life is good enough (200+ RAW shots). One oddity is that Auto ISO setting works only between 100 and 200. Considering that this camera produces eminently usable results at ISO 800, Auto ISO should be allowed to go up to at least 800. Another feature I like is that when you go into the menu button, do certain things, exit and then you go back to the menu again, it remembers where you left off so that you don't have to scroll through the entire menu list again. A thoughtful feature. Same for AEL - it remembers the last exposure obtained by pushing of the AEL button until either you push it again or you take a shot. The camera has certain analogue smartness and lacks digital stupidity, rendering its operation intuitive and simple. Unlike many electronic cameras these days, this camera does not have a bunch of features that people almost never use but rather seem to focus on the core set of useful features either in one-step or two-step operations.
When you shoot in RAW (it is a requirement; otherwise don't buy this camera), process it with the right combination of settings, the image result could stun you. Almost as good as a 1:1 DSLR and certainly more exciting. Yes, better than a GF1 or a PEN PE1 (I have used both). Very close to film cameras (film scan or slides). The colors are alive and kicking. Don't take my words for it -- just google seasoned professionals such as Julie Mayfeng (India & Nepal works) or Carl Rytterfalk who swear by this camera. And their works show what this camera could do when in right hands. |
Film has met its match - almost...
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| Review Date: December 2, 2009 |
| Reviewer: J. Sarte, Manhattan, NY |
I've been shooting with 35mm, 120, and Canon full-frame digital SLR's for a long time. I've never used a Foveon based camera prior to owning this DP2. I can honestly write here that I'm astounded at the image quality coming out of such a tiny box! In fact, I'm so impressed that I've made up my mind to pick up Sigma's SD15 once it becomes available for purchase. The pictures are just that good.
The camera itself is a bit quirky. I won't go into technical detail here. If you're after a technical review, check out the DP Review. I will note what I've found odd or inconvenient. First, the lens is great - sharp corner to corner with no CA and minimal distortion BUT it's slow. It's faster than the DP1's wider lens, but slow compared to some of the lenses I'm used to working with (50mm F1.2 Canon prime for example). This makes shooting in low-light conditions problematic, especially when it comes to focusing or using low ISO's to minimize image noise. If you want to shoot in low light, use a tripod.
Another gripe is that the AF system is slow and loud. The loud I don't mind so much, but its slowness relegates the camera to shooting mostly static subjects. In other words, dynamic street photography (for which this camera's physical size would be perfect for) can be an exercise in futility. The AF accuracy on the other hand has generally been very good when it does lock on. I haven't noticed too many OOF pictures, even in low light.
The LCD screen could definitely be improved as well. Manual focus using the screen can be a bit tricky due to its low resolution. On the other hand, it works pretty well outdoors contrary to what some have said, and I find its color and contrast rendition to be pretty decent as far as tiny LCD's go.
The DP2's battery life can also be improved. I've only shot in raw mode, and as such only manage to get 70 or so captures before the camera tells me to recharge. I think a second battery is definitely a need.
Finally, high ISO performance can still be improved. 50 to 400 ISO are definitely usable. 800 ISO can work depending on conditions. 1600 to 3200 ISO are useless for color photography, but can yield some interesting results when converted to black and white.
Now I've mentioned what I thought needs improvement. Here's what doesn't: Image Quality. The IQ is stupendous. I haven't seen this level of color accuracy come out of a digital camera before. Ever. Foveon's X3 sensor lives up to its claim when it comes to color detail and rendition. The images coming out of this camera are very close to film. If you've shot a lot of film before and miss that look, then you should definitely consider trying one of these cameras out. You'll be pleasantly surprised.
Below are a few links to sample images I've taken with this camera:
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Please stop by my gallery and check out the rest of the pictures. I'll be sure to add more DP2 images in the weeks to come. Thanks for reading my review and happy shooting! |
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